Puppy Socialization classes are an amazing way of getting your puppy to meet lots of other dogs and people. You may be thinking, "why bother with a puppy class, I have plans to socialize my puppy on my own and train my puppy on my own". I started off thinking the same thing. Initially we were signed up for puppy classes because to adopt puppies from the SPCA you must provide proof that you will be attending an obedience class. Kobi was too young for the obedience classes at Sublime Canine so we went for the puppy classes instead. The way it works at Sublime Canine is you can attend drop in classes, so you can go to as many or as few classes as you like. Sadly we only made it to two classes because it fell on nights when I tend to work. From the two that we went to Kobi was a mad barker. This was our first introduction to positive reinforcement training so we didn't come with tasty treats and we were told to just feed him when he was quiet, well he was rarely quiet and had no interest in our food.
At Sublime Canine they work on basic social skills with the puppies, getting the puppies to meet people politely, getting them to meet some of the other puppies politely, start showing you how to gain focus and attention from your puppy and will touch on some obedience such as sit and down. Once you have run through some of the exercises the puppies get a brief play time, working on being able to remove the leash without your puppy getting crazy excited and bolting, and being able to call your puppy away from play time.
What's great about these classes is you get to socialize your puppy in a controlled environment with a trainer who can help you troubleshoot through some issues and concerns, and most importantly everyone is usually there for the same reason, making things relaxed and fun.
Even if you plan on doing all your own obedience training, giving your puppy a good social foundation is the key to having a well rounded confident dog, and puppy classes help.
Below is a list of training facilities that offer puppy classes:
Showing posts with label Puppy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Puppy. Show all posts
Tuesday, 10 April 2012
Monday, 9 April 2012
Socializing with your Puppy
As we all know puppies need to be socialized. Their prime socialization period is between 8-16 weeks, so take advantage of those two months and socialize like hell! Kobi spent his first social month in the shelter. First week or two he was in Cape Breton before coming down to Halifax, then one of the dogs he was transported with was being monitored for Parvo meaning he was also on Parvo watch for two weeks. So once we brought him home we wanted him to have a week or so for him to settle into a routine. Once we felt he was ready I did my best to socialize him. I took him to a local dog friendly corner store and would just sit outside and let people come say hi to him (turned out he was terrified of most people and looking back now it was signs of his reactivity but at the time I had no clue). I would take him to parks and get him near to kids playing on play grounds so he could hear the sounds of kids running and screaming. Some kids even came to say hi. We took him driving lots of places. We took him to meet both our families and their dogs. I would bring him to work with me when I could for very short periods of time (he usually did a lot of barking now again realizing it was him being reactive). We took him to gatherings with our friends (again a usually reactive event). It wasn't until he was 5 months that we started taking him to the dog park but that was because I didn't know about the morning dog romps at point pleasant prior to then.
Knowing what I do now, I would have taken him to Canadian Tire and the other dog friendly businesses that I have since found. I would have taken him to the bank with me. I would have made more of an effort to take him to pet stores just because. I would have spent more time places like downtown or the commons and in particular around areas like the playground and skate park.
Puppies are people magnets, take advantage of his cuteness and introduce him to as many people as possible while you can. Do, however, listen to your puppy, watch for signs of anxiety and stress and remove them from situations that are causing them stress or anxiety. The last thing you want is for them to associate things and people with these feelings, you want them to associate new experiences and people with positive feelings. I feel like this is something I screwed up on and contributed to Kobis reactivity, largely because I didn't know he was stressed and anxious, I just thought it was a faze from being out of the shelter and that it would pass. Looking back now I would have done things a little differently and made sure Kobi was only having positive experiences.
Socializing your pup can be a lot of fun, so if you're going out bring them with you and take advantage of this period while you can!
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| At 6 months Kobi came camping with us at Dollar Lake |
Knowing what I do now, I would have taken him to Canadian Tire and the other dog friendly businesses that I have since found. I would have taken him to the bank with me. I would have made more of an effort to take him to pet stores just because. I would have spent more time places like downtown or the commons and in particular around areas like the playground and skate park.
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| Kobi watching kids play on a play ground (Oxford School). |
Puppies are people magnets, take advantage of his cuteness and introduce him to as many people as possible while you can. Do, however, listen to your puppy, watch for signs of anxiety and stress and remove them from situations that are causing them stress or anxiety. The last thing you want is for them to associate things and people with these feelings, you want them to associate new experiences and people with positive feelings. I feel like this is something I screwed up on and contributed to Kobis reactivity, largely because I didn't know he was stressed and anxious, I just thought it was a faze from being out of the shelter and that it would pass. Looking back now I would have done things a little differently and made sure Kobi was only having positive experiences.
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| Kobi visiting with some friends at the lake. |
Socializing your pup can be a lot of fun, so if you're going out bring them with you and take advantage of this period while you can!
Friday, 6 April 2012
Brining your new puppy home when you already have a dog at home
Bringing a new puppy home can be a very exciting time for everyone, everyone except sometimes your older dog. Every dog will take to a new addition in different ways, some welcome them with open paws, others have no interest and need time, while others are not very keen on the idea at all. For me it was incredibly important that I get a puppy while Scout was still around. Where Scout is such a confident and well rounded dog I really wanted some of that to imprint onto my new puppy.
As part of SPCA protocols Scout and Kobi had to meet prior to the adoption being approved. So this was their first meeting, in an area neutral to both of them. This step is very important. Introduce your new puppy to your dog somewhere neutral that is not considered your dogs "territory".
Before bringing your new puppy inside (weather permitting) you should take three walks along your normal route. The first should be with just your older dog, the second should be with just the puppy letting them sniff and take their time. (If you have a long block take them on just the portion you plan on walking them). Finally take the two dogs together, try to remain calm with goof body posture and giving plenty of attention to your older dog.
At this point you can now take them inside, allowing your older dog in first and a chance to settle back in before bringing in the puppy. Keep your puppy on a drag line to prevent them from getting into anything or chasing after your older dog, cats or kids. Take the puppy around to each of the rooms in your home, letting them sniff and take their time. You can show them where their bed and toys are but chances are they won't be interested in them yet. If your older dog has a bed try to reserve that bed just for him. Kobi frequently tried to steal Scouts bed but we would remove him and motion Scout back on as it was "Scout's" place. Now that they are comfortable with each other they often share the bed.
Follow your puppy's schedule for the next couple of days, play when he wants to play, eat when he wants to eat, take him out frequently to try to avoid any accidents inside and the creations of an association with soiling in the house. All the time make sure to give your older dog lots of love and attention, don't make him feel left out! This sounds easy but it's not, the charms of a cute puppy are often the only thing you'll be noticing, but don't forget your older dog.
When it comes to feeding time feed them at separate times and places if possible to avoid any resource aggression.
Be prepared for your older dog to show your puppy his place. Never leave the two unattended together and when both are roaming keep them in your eyesight. Leaving a drag line on your puppy can also help to remove the puppy from any tense situations. I learned very unexpectedly that play time was a tense time. I learned the hard way that if I tugged vigorously with Kobi Scout became protective and would try to intervene. To say the least there were a few tense moments of Scout trying to protect me. From then on there was no intense tug playing.
Puppies supply lots of cuteness and fun, enjoy it while you can by starting your puppy and your dog off with the right start!
As part of SPCA protocols Scout and Kobi had to meet prior to the adoption being approved. So this was their first meeting, in an area neutral to both of them. This step is very important. Introduce your new puppy to your dog somewhere neutral that is not considered your dogs "territory".
Before bringing your new puppy inside (weather permitting) you should take three walks along your normal route. The first should be with just your older dog, the second should be with just the puppy letting them sniff and take their time. (If you have a long block take them on just the portion you plan on walking them). Finally take the two dogs together, try to remain calm with goof body posture and giving plenty of attention to your older dog.
At this point you can now take them inside, allowing your older dog in first and a chance to settle back in before bringing in the puppy. Keep your puppy on a drag line to prevent them from getting into anything or chasing after your older dog, cats or kids. Take the puppy around to each of the rooms in your home, letting them sniff and take their time. You can show them where their bed and toys are but chances are they won't be interested in them yet. If your older dog has a bed try to reserve that bed just for him. Kobi frequently tried to steal Scouts bed but we would remove him and motion Scout back on as it was "Scout's" place. Now that they are comfortable with each other they often share the bed.
Follow your puppy's schedule for the next couple of days, play when he wants to play, eat when he wants to eat, take him out frequently to try to avoid any accidents inside and the creations of an association with soiling in the house. All the time make sure to give your older dog lots of love and attention, don't make him feel left out! This sounds easy but it's not, the charms of a cute puppy are often the only thing you'll be noticing, but don't forget your older dog.
When it comes to feeding time feed them at separate times and places if possible to avoid any resource aggression.
Be prepared for your older dog to show your puppy his place. Never leave the two unattended together and when both are roaming keep them in your eyesight. Leaving a drag line on your puppy can also help to remove the puppy from any tense situations. I learned very unexpectedly that play time was a tense time. I learned the hard way that if I tugged vigorously with Kobi Scout became protective and would try to intervene. To say the least there were a few tense moments of Scout trying to protect me. From then on there was no intense tug playing.
Puppies supply lots of cuteness and fun, enjoy it while you can by starting your puppy and your dog off with the right start!
Thursday, 5 April 2012
Puppy Essentials
Before bringing your puppy home there are a few things you must have to start things off right.
First off, take a look at your home, now look at it from a puppy point of view. If your tall like me that can sometimes means actually getting on your hands and knees. Look for areas that need puppy proofing. Hide things like wires or tape down any exposed wires. Don't leave chewables like shoes and clothes on the floor. Keep an eye out for high risk items like table legs, banisters and chairs that may entice chewing.
Next figure out where you would like your puppy to spend their time. Are they going to have a separate room with a crate? Are they going to be in the living room with everyone but sleep in the bedroom? Try to find cozy spots for their beds, areas that are a little darker and more closed off. In the living room Kobi had blankets in between our couch and love seat and in the bedroom he was tucked between the bed, nightstand and wall.
Where are you going to feed your puppy? If you're feeding in an area with carpets make sure to get a mat to prevent water spills. Where will your puppy use the bathroom? Are you going to train your puppy to go outside or on pee pads in the house? What kind of food are you going to feed your puppy? Your puppy may be being fed a specific brand (the local SPCA only feeds IAMS and sells bags at the shelter).
If you think about these things prior to bringing your puppy home you can have them start off consistently and not have to worry about moving stuff around and having a very confused puppy.
Some other essential items include the more fun stuff and a trip to the pet store.
I personally love getting to choose leashes and collars. I think they're great ways of showing off both yours and your dogs personality. There are lots of options to choose from in both styles and colours. You'll need to decide if you want a buckle collar or a training collar. If you have a small breed something like a harness might be a good idea. If your goal is to be able to walk your dog on his collar I recommend starting them on just the collar, worry about no pull devices later when it's beginning to become an issue. If you can teach walking manners young you may not need them, but also puppies grow fast, if you buy one that fits now, it may not fit when you actually need it. I also recommend using a training collar or martingale collar for your first collar, that way if your puppy ever tries to pull back on it they can't slip their heads out. Also keep in mind to buy the right size collar. We started Kobi off in a medium training collar with it as small as it could go and it was still a tad to big. He eventually got to the point where we had it stretched as far as it could go and almost had to cut it off him when we switched up to his adult collar.
Now onto toys!
Toys are somewhere you can end up spending a lot of money so be wise with your toy purchases and cover all your bases to find out what type of toy your dog likes. A Kong is an essential. They do sell puppy Kongs but unless you have a tiny puppy, try going for the medium size. They may not be able to get it in their mouth right now, but they can still play with it and they will grow. Kobi still uses his medium sized Kong. You'll also want to get a classic nylabone, some come with flavours, ridges and tastes, pick one that fits your puppy but isn't too expensive. Kobi never liked his nylabone so we gave it to Beau instead who
destroyed it in a matter of days. Get at least one small rubber toy. This can be anything, so long as its not the classic Kong. This will tell you if you have a dog who prefers hard plastic like the nylabones, or something softer. Kobi preferred rubber. I recommend at least one soft plush toy. Again don't spend a fortune on it, it will probably not live a long life. But for puppies with their tiny teeth, sometimes something soft is nice to much on. You can also use it for teaching games like tug or fetch, just remember to be easy with pulling so as not to damage any teeth. Rope toys are also great for teething puppies.
Now that you've got your toys, you can get the extras. Choosing dishes for food and water. Stainless steel are often a good choice because it is harder for bacteria to grown on the smooth surface. Buy at least one soft brush and a set of nail clippers. Even if you have no intention of clipping or brushing your puppy, your can train them to enjoy the items and not be terrified of them. My older dog Scout despite weekly brushing despises it and the second he sees a pair of nail clippers runs (slowly but he still goes away). Again if you are getting a small breed and heading into the winter months a coat and booties may be required to keep them warm when out on pee breaks.
Crates are a personal choice, along with carriers. If you are away most of the day a crate if a great option. It may be tempting to buy the crate that your dog will need when he's full grown but this can lead to anxiety and soiling within the crate. Choose a crate that is just big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in. Another option if you have room is to use an x-pen with designated sleeping, eating and peeing areas.
Bitter Apple Spray is something some people swear by. It's a highly distasteful spray that you can spray on anything you think your puppy might chew on. Leashes, shoes, walls, kids toys, anything! I found the product to be a touch expensive so we used apple cider vinegar instead. Kobi hated it and wouldn't touch anything coated in it.
Start your puppy off with the right supplies and you'll be enjoying more of those cute moments. Enjoy them while you can because they don't last long!
First off, take a look at your home, now look at it from a puppy point of view. If your tall like me that can sometimes means actually getting on your hands and knees. Look for areas that need puppy proofing. Hide things like wires or tape down any exposed wires. Don't leave chewables like shoes and clothes on the floor. Keep an eye out for high risk items like table legs, banisters and chairs that may entice chewing.
 |
| Kobi used to enjoy crawling under our coffee table |
Where are you going to feed your puppy? If you're feeding in an area with carpets make sure to get a mat to prevent water spills. Where will your puppy use the bathroom? Are you going to train your puppy to go outside or on pee pads in the house? What kind of food are you going to feed your puppy? Your puppy may be being fed a specific brand (the local SPCA only feeds IAMS and sells bags at the shelter).
If you think about these things prior to bringing your puppy home you can have them start off consistently and not have to worry about moving stuff around and having a very confused puppy.
 |
| Kobi's puppy collar (right) and adult collar (left) |
I personally love getting to choose leashes and collars. I think they're great ways of showing off both yours and your dogs personality. There are lots of options to choose from in both styles and colours. You'll need to decide if you want a buckle collar or a training collar. If you have a small breed something like a harness might be a good idea. If your goal is to be able to walk your dog on his collar I recommend starting them on just the collar, worry about no pull devices later when it's beginning to become an issue. If you can teach walking manners young you may not need them, but also puppies grow fast, if you buy one that fits now, it may not fit when you actually need it. I also recommend using a training collar or martingale collar for your first collar, that way if your puppy ever tries to pull back on it they can't slip their heads out. Also keep in mind to buy the right size collar. We started Kobi off in a medium training collar with it as small as it could go and it was still a tad to big. He eventually got to the point where we had it stretched as far as it could go and almost had to cut it off him when we switched up to his adult collar.
Now onto toys!Toys are somewhere you can end up spending a lot of money so be wise with your toy purchases and cover all your bases to find out what type of toy your dog likes. A Kong is an essential. They do sell puppy Kongs but unless you have a tiny puppy, try going for the medium size. They may not be able to get it in their mouth right now, but they can still play with it and they will grow. Kobi still uses his medium sized Kong. You'll also want to get a classic nylabone, some come with flavours, ridges and tastes, pick one that fits your puppy but isn't too expensive. Kobi never liked his nylabone so we gave it to Beau instead who
destroyed it in a matter of days. Get at least one small rubber toy. This can be anything, so long as its not the classic Kong. This will tell you if you have a dog who prefers hard plastic like the nylabones, or something softer. Kobi preferred rubber. I recommend at least one soft plush toy. Again don't spend a fortune on it, it will probably not live a long life. But for puppies with their tiny teeth, sometimes something soft is nice to much on. You can also use it for teaching games like tug or fetch, just remember to be easy with pulling so as not to damage any teeth. Rope toys are also great for teething puppies.Now that you've got your toys, you can get the extras. Choosing dishes for food and water. Stainless steel are often a good choice because it is harder for bacteria to grown on the smooth surface. Buy at least one soft brush and a set of nail clippers. Even if you have no intention of clipping or brushing your puppy, your can train them to enjoy the items and not be terrified of them. My older dog Scout despite weekly brushing despises it and the second he sees a pair of nail clippers runs (slowly but he still goes away). Again if you are getting a small breed and heading into the winter months a coat and booties may be required to keep them warm when out on pee breaks.
 |
| Kobi hoarding his new toys, a rubber bone, a felted bone, his prized monkey and a rope ball in the corner. |
Bitter Apple Spray is something some people swear by. It's a highly distasteful spray that you can spray on anything you think your puppy might chew on. Leashes, shoes, walls, kids toys, anything! I found the product to be a touch expensive so we used apple cider vinegar instead. Kobi hated it and wouldn't touch anything coated in it.
Start your puppy off with the right supplies and you'll be enjoying more of those cute moments. Enjoy them while you can because they don't last long!
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